
Traditional breeds and some hardy incomers makes Ballingham Hall Farm a unique spot for fine food production, says Richard McComb.
The fluffy four-legged creatures in front of us, endlessly nibbling grass or scratching their backs against the hedgerows, might be more at home on windswept Lakeland fells.
But it is hard to imagine a happier flock of Herdwick sheep than those mingling in this sheltered upper field at Ballingham Hall Farm, near Hereford. Herdwicks have never had it so good.
Farmer David Watkins speaks of the breed’s hardy nature and enduring temperament. “They’re used to rough weather in Cumbria,” says David, whose family have lived here for more than 120 years. “It must be paradise for them here.”
David and son George bought the sheep a year ago because they wanted to experiment with a different breed, one not native to Herefordshire but nonetheless steeped in tradition. “We got them as pets really,” says David.
Don’t be deceived by the disarming manner. As becomes apparent, this is a very shrewd farmer and if the market for Herdwick lamb takes off in Herefordshire there will be no one more satisfied than 48-year-old David.
George, 22, who accompanies us on a tour of the 1,000-acre farm, says: “We thought Herdwicks would be an interesting thing to try. They will probably be classed as hoggets (older lambs) because of their age.”
David adds: “The meat is slow growing and will give a more flavoursome meat. We can’t wait to see how it turns out.”
The animals will be slaughtered at about a year-old, meaning the first tranche of Ballingham Herdwick will be ready for spring roasting next Easter. There are 30 ewes and their lambs. David says the ewes have produced “one-and-a-half lambs” each as opposed to the single off-spring of upland Cumbrian Herdwicks. “So they must like something about the place,” he adds.
As is traditional, the lambs tails have not been docked and the Watkins like the fact the animals are low maintenance. Lakeland sheep are said to be loyal to their patch, being “heafed” to the fell, meaning they can be left alone without straying; but the Herefordshire incomers are inquisitive and a few explorers need to be rounded up swiftly after sneaking out through an open gate.
The Watkins’ holding extends to three farms, including Brook Farm at Little Marcle, a 15-minutes’ drive away. It is here that they are experimenting with an even more unusual breed – badger faced lamb. The striking black and white Welsh mountain animals graze under old cider apple trees and have been here for several years.
George says: “The meat is fantastic, a little like Herdwick, very flavoursome.” The meat, lean and tender, is known for its succulence and the Watkins’ flock feeds entirely on grass, as do all their animals, making the meat an entirely natural product.
George is working on launching a new internet-based shopping service for Ballingham Hall Farm, working closely with website designer James Ford – who happens to rent the orchard and field where the badger face sheep live.
There is, though, another significant type of Ballingham livestock that we haven’t touched on. The Watkins’ business is based on a Herefordshire mixed farming model, with cereals and grasses and potatoes. And that means there has got to be Hereford cattle. If you think the sheep live in idyllic conditions, just wait until you see where the cattle live.