Enter the dragon...Richard McComb talks to Chinese food specialist Brian Yip about the feasting and symbolism of Chinese New Year.

It’s the biggest, most spectacular event in the Chinese calender but for Brian Yip it will always mean one thing: home-cooked rice porridge.

Brian remembers his grandmother preparing the dish, known as congee, for Chinese New Year at the family’s home in Edgbaston.

And even though the 36-year-old father of two can have his pick of Oriental foods today – it helps that he is a director of Birmingham-based Wing Yip, the UK’s largest Chinese grocer – congee remains his favourite dish.

His recalls how his grandmother would serve the rice porridge with pork or preserved eggs, with noodles on the side, as breakfast to kick start the New Year celebrations. The hearty meal heralded the start of a day dedicated to honouring ancestors, looking forward to a year of wealth and prosperity – and a fair bit of feasting.

This year, the first day of Chinese New Year falls on January 23 and marks the advent of the Year of the Dragon, a particularly auspicious year, the mythic creature signifying power, good luck, success and happiness.

“Chinese New Year has always been a very big deal from being very young and we have grown up accustomed to it,” says Brian, whose 73-year-old father Wing Yip is still at the helm of the international food specialist.

“You have to be on your best behaviour. You cannot swear, or say things out of the turn, or argue. You have to get the year off to a good start.”

Brian was one of four children – with brothers Albert and David and sister Cindy – and they were all aged closely together.

He remembers it could be a challenge for the boisterous young siblings to keep the peace but the importance of honouring the new year was impressed upon them.

Before lunch at Wing Wah restaurant, based at Wing Yip’s HQ in Nechells, Birmingham, Brian takes me through a typical day as a child at Chinese New Year.

He explains that the first thing you say to anyone, before saying good morning, is “Gung Hei Fat Choi,” which translates as “Wishing You Prosperity and Wealth”.

On a day when symbolism is rich, children then receive gifts of red envelopes containing “lucky” money.

The symbolism informs a grand dinner, consisting of eight or nine dishes, on New Year’s Eve night.

“Eight signifies prosperity and nine is long life,” says Brian.

He recalls being served “black noodles” called fat choy, or black moss, as this symbolises money.

The meal might include a whole chicken (which represents the beginning and end of the year); dumplings, which are shaped like ancient Chinese coins; and rice (which symbolises good fortune and well-being). Other roast meats might include pork and duck, or barbecued pork.

A large fish, symbolising luck and prosperity, is essential. This is never filleted and is served whole. In the UK, Brian says Chinese families might choose sea bass or a turbot.

He adds: “It is important that the whole family sits down to eat. We get together to bring the New Year in. It is a celebration but not like New Year’s Eve (in the West). It is more like a thanksgiving.

“Some families have a table, like an altar, where they burn incense and roast chicken will be presented as a gift to the ancestors.”

In the morning of Chinese New Year, the family eat “nian gao”, or new year cake, which is fried with egg. It is made of glutinous rice and brown sugar.