Wheely stuffed at the Wagon
Wagon Wheel Inn * * *
Grimley, Worcester
WR2 6LU
Tel: 01905 640340
While I am never one to shirk a challenge, writing about food after Christmas does seem a bit pointless. It's a bit like setting up a New Year advice group for worried turkeys.
I know I should have been here weeks ago, writing about where you could have spent that money that you never really had.
You may now have the odd Argos voucher, or a few extra quid which fell out of Granny's card. But let's face it, there are other priorities in January. In fact, you've probably only skimmed over this review in the hope that you might spot an advert for an exercise bike with an in-built calorie calculator.
Or you might be searching for gym membership special offers, or cut price yearly subscriptions for organic farm produce.
But don't be fooled by that guy with the bronze abdomen or that woman in the bikini on the adjoining page. That won't be you in a few months' time after you've shed all those extra Christmas pounds.
Be honest with yourself. Are you really going to visit the gym every week for the entire year? Are you really going to cut down on fine dining and replace it with infinite sit-ups?
I bet even Keith Richards decides to turn his life around every New Year's Day. And take a look at him. He might have a face as wrinkled as a gearstick gaiter, but at least he is still here.
Forget all the promises and lies, stick two fingers up to the nanny state and make your New Year's resolution to get out and enjoy yourself more.
In fact, the Wagon Wheel in Grimley is a the type of friendly, atmospheric pub/restaurant where you could make a stand.
And it has beautiful cut-glass wine glasses and linen napkins. And it offers big portions. And the chef does interesting things with bacon. And there is a real possibility that you could get lost if you do not know the area well. (Even with a satnav, honestly!)
Firstly, the portions. In keeping with many Italian restaurants, the starter is almost always sufficient to keep one satisfied over the entire winter period.
The home made lasagne was large enough to feed Garibaldi's army. However, the lack of taste meant it was as plain as his namesake biscuit rather than his favourite grub.
For main course, the Fillet Steak Wagon Wheel; fillet wrapped in bacon, grilled and served on onions, mushrooms, peppers and red wine sauce was also huge. It was a massive step up from the lasagne, with tender steak brimming with its own meat juices.
But there was no elaborate bacon wrap-around that I expected. It was merely placed to the side of steak.
I didn't expect a chipolata-style bacon wrap (I had had too many of those during the Boxing Day Bond film), but something more adventurous than a mixed grill with sauce would have been preferable.
But while the beef was less daring than I expected, it was still flavoursome. And there was a slice of bacon to nibble on.
There was also bacon wrapped around Lady G's three giant garlic prawns, sleeping bag style. That's more like it!
Her braised shoulder of lamb in red wine, redcurrant jelly and rosemary sauce also maintained the Wagon Wheel's reputation for providing fine meat dishes.
And the shared vegetables were thoroughly warmed through, which does seem to be a rarity in many restaurants these days.
The Wagon Wheel enticingly places the sweet trolley in the middle of the restaurant floor, which aims to either tempt customers or infuriate calm mannered staff serving dishes.
They should have taken my order before I started eating. What looked delicious pre-dinner was now my worst enemy following the amount of food I had eaten.
Given that the bill was already approaching £70 - which is far more than granny's Xmas budget - we declined.
The Wagon Wheel is a lovely traditional venue, which makes winter relaxation enjoyable. But if you don't go easy on the portions, you may get stuck in the snow on your way out.
But I suppose pushing the car through the country lanes might offer some post-Christmas exercise.
