Birmingham chefs leading the seafood revival
Mar 27 2009 by Richard McComb, Birmingham Post
Seafood consumption is riding the crest of a wave – and chefs are playing a key role, says Richard McComb.
Munching on delicate canapés of Brixham red mullet, Isle of Arran scallops and Aberdeenshire pickled herring it was reassuring to know I was doing my bit to promote the worthy cause of fish consumption.
The seafood and Champagne get-together was held at the Bucklemaker in Birmingham, one of the region’s best fish restaurants, to marks its triumph in an award scheme designed to find the best and tastiest use of the oceans’ rich larder.
Top fish supplier Openshaws, which has a base in Birmingham, and Seafish, the UK seafood authority, challenged cooks to conjure up dishes based on seasonal, wild and native produce. The emphasis was on the provenance of fish and sustainability, all with a view to protecting fish stocks for future generations while continuing to thrill diners’ tastebuds.
The top prize went to the Bucklemaker, in St Paul’s Square, which won over the judges with a dish of wild Devonshire turbot fillet, from Brixham, poached in a court bouillon, with fresh ginger and crab cakes.
Head chef Daniel Anderson said the victory underlined the restaurant’s commitment to serving the freshest fish and developing exciting new recipes. He said customers were always willing to try new fish varieties and flavour combinations. “We have always tried to open the door where customers’ tastes are concerned. I like to try and push exploration,” said Daniel.
To celebrate their win, Daniel and his right-hand man David Killingworth laid on a wonderful selection of canapés. The red mullet was pan-seared with saffron aioli and olive tapenade; Cornish local boat mackerel, smoked in house, was peppered with cream of horseradish and avruga caviar; and the Scottish scallops were marinated with dill, lime and juniper and accompanied with crushed quail eggs.
It’s hardly surprising fish outsells meat during the week at the restaurant and it is particularly popular for lighter lunch-time eating. Regular seafood dishes might feature scallops, currently being served with a cauliflower puree and tartare butter. “It’s been flying out of the kitchen. People love the simplicity of the dish,” said Daniel.
The competition coincided with a drive to raise awareness about the health benefits of eating fish and comes as popular consumption rides the crest of a wave.
According to Seafish’s recently published 2008 trade summary, a total of 780,600 tonnes of seafood worth £2.2 billion was imported into the UK – up five per cent on the previous year. In cash terms, the UK imports twice the amount of seafood it
