Food critic Richard McComb meets Paul Gould, a chef who isn’t fazed by catering for Biblical numbers of diners.
Forget about the feeding of the five thousand – Paul Gould just about breaks sweat when he is rustling up meals for 10,000.
As group executive head chef at the NEC, Gould might have to cater simultaneously for conference delegates, show visitors and concert-goers. Throw in a few international superstars and a couple of Royals and you pretty much get an insight into the pressure-cooker life of this industry veteran.
Gould, aged 57, is celebrating 35 years working at the NEC, having watched the venue grow from a fledgling building in a muddy field to a world-renowned meeting place for just about anyone from doting dog-lovers to fans of Lady Gaga.
When he started on £40-a-week, there was “just” the NEC to cook for. Now there is the International Convention Centre, the National Indoor Arena, the LG Arena, plus any number of outside events under the auspices of Amadeus, the NEC’s premier catering wing. The latest addition to the expanding roster is the RHS Hampton Court Flower Show. As far as Gould’s career goes, everything has a habit of coming up roses.
We meet in his office in the Atrium at the NEC. It’s like any other workplace except Gould is dressed in his chef whites.
A pleated, starched toque blanche sits atop his head. Another senior chef is working on menu plans – for 2013. A wall is lined with large hardback folders crammed with details about the catering triumphs of previous large-scale events. A casual glance catches on the Ryder Cup 2002 and the BBC Gardeners’ World Live 2001. There are hundreds of folders.
Gould’s own desk is neatly lined with thinner plastic files containing typed menus with details on dish presentation, decoration and garnishes. The style of food changes depending on the acts, or shows, and are “artist appropriate.”
There’s one menu for Simply Red and different ones for the poppier feel of X Factor Live and Boyzone. The Irish band are due on stage in the next few days and Gould says it will be interesting to see the audience for the “grown up” schoolgirl heart-throbs. He’s expecting plenty of mums aged in their 30s or 40s with screaming young daughters of their own.
Mr Cool, Jamiroquai, is playing the LG Arena in April and the funky fare includes top level dining in the venue’s Sanctum restaurant – pan-fried fillet of beef, roast duck breast, fillet of sea bass. It is part of the 14 catering packages available that night alone, from fish and chips to fine dining.
The menus vary greatly according to the age profile and tastes of the act’s fans. Mobile units mean Champagne bars can be converted into mini sweet-shops for child-orientated spectaculars.
Gould says: “Michael Buble would be a modern, Mediterranean style of plated food. His sort of audience goes regularly to restaurants and they will be au fait with what goes on with food. Justin Bieber will be more of a buffet-style for a younger audience.”
It’s a far cry from the days when The Who were ripping up the Arena and international stars like Tom Jones and Rod Stewart were in their pomp. The glory days of the epic Motor Show lunches, which started at midday and trailed off into the evening, have long gone. Dining has gone from formal to informal; less (certainly as far as cream and butter are concerned) is more. Conference delegates and pop fans want a lighter touch.
