Banquet fit for a future king

Chefs get cooking

Food critic Richard McComb asks some of Birmingham's top chefs for Royal Wedding menu suggestions.

For his many wedding feasts, Henry VIII loved to get his teeth into a lip-smacking swan, stuffed with a lark, the smaller bird stuffed with a sparrow.

The post-nuptial banquet for Prince William and Kate Middleton is likely to feature less politically sensitive, not to say less chewy, ingredients and will be scrutinised, like everything else on the big day, to see if it speaks of modern trends (tapas-style portions, nose-to-tail eating, silly jellies with savoury courses) or ploughs a more traditional culinary farrow.

Whatever the menu degustation at Buckingham Palace, it seems unlikely that the couple will opt for the lavish 80s cream and fat-heavy dishes favoured by William’s parents for their 1981 wedding banquet, when Lyonnaise-style quenelles with lobster sauce and chicken stuffed with lamb mousse were flavours of the era.

Brett Sandland, executive chef at the Hyatt Regency in Birmingham, says it’s tricky to strike the right balance for such a grand affair.

“Should it be traditional or modern? Young and trendy. Or stately?” says Sandland.

“First of all, the produce has to be British, seasonal, sustainable and fresh as the Royals have some great estates. April is spring season, so you could be looking at salmon from the River Dee on the Balmoral estate. There’s great beef and spring lamb is just in season.

“Then you could look at asparagus, wild garlic, watercress and lemon sole, which is wonderful at this time of year. Great British produce is endless.”

Sandland prefers a traditional, sit-down three or four course meal, with suitably historic references, for the newly-weds.

“What about a nice poached salmon, watercress and asparagus, or lemon sole, to start?” says the chef, whose responsibilities at the Hyatt include the Aria restaurant.

“For the main course, I’d go for beef Wellington. Its history dates back to the Duke of Wellington in 1815. It was first made for him as a celebration for defeating Napoleon at Waterloo.”

For a fun and tasty dessert, Sandland suggests an old-fashioned trifle – with a Brummie twist. “Use English berries, which are now available and in my opinion are the best in the world, Cornish cream and serve in a Martini glass with sprinkled Cadbury’s chocolate on the top.”

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