Africa's beating heart

By Stefan Kucharczyk

Marrakech, no longer a hippy paradise, is still a vital centre of economy and culture in Morocco.

Stranded at the tip of Africa, hovering on the periphery of Europe and standing as the western extremity of the Muslim world, the cities of Morocco offer travellers a forgotten glimpse of the exotic.

Marrakech - meaning "City of Morocco" - is unmistakably the African heart of the nation. But whilst its heady days as a hippy paradise are long over, it still retains its esoteric allure.

Situated 160 miles from the Atlantic coast, within touching distance of the Atlas Mountains and on the northern tip of the Sahara desert, with a population of more than a million, Marrakech has always been a vital centre of economy and culture in Morocco.

Founded in 1062 AD by sultan Youssef bin Tachfin, the city flirted with importance under the control of the powerful Almoravid, Almohad and Saadi dynasties - it was briefly made the capital of Morocco in the 16th century.

However, the beautiful and vibrant city came into its own with the arrival of the French in the 19th Century, who developed the ville nouvelle - new town - and subsequently transformed Marrakech into a centre of national importance.

As is characteristic with most North African cities, Marrakech is divided into two distinct halves: the ville nouvelle, and the Medina. Separated physically and aesthetically from the medieval Medina, the two entities could not be more remote. Serving as a modern business district, with its wide, European boulevards lined with palm trees, the new town of Marrakech is oddly reminiscent of Los Angeles.

The beating heart of Marrakech is the Jemaa el-Fna, the vast square at the centre of the medina and the busiest market square in Africa. This, as the popular myth would have you believe, loosely translates as 'place of the dead' - a suitably fitting sobriquet for a place of the occult and exotic. Sadly the more accurate meaning is 'the mosque that came to nothing' a darkly humorous reference to the abortive attempt to build a mosque at a corner of the square.

In the very early morning, the square appears nothing more than a large paved area, and with its shuttered shops and absence of thronging crowds, it could almost be a picture of tranquillity.

As the morning progresses, these illusions are shattered as the Jemaa el-Fna roars into life, quickly flooding with the stalls of local traders, pedalling salted snails, orange juice and a dazzling array of intoxicating, multi-coloured spices; the square is literal feast for the eyes.

As witch doctors - offering, as I was assured with worrying frequency, the never failing "Moroccan Viagra" - compete for market space with a sea of snake charmers, magicians, dentists (please, after you) and performers, they are complemented by an equal number of rather bewildered looking tour-ists weaving their way through the seething crowds.

By nightfall the square is transformed into a feast for the soul and, of course, for the stomach. Hundreds of hastily erected grills cook up some of the tastiest and cheapest traditional Moroccan food in the blink of an eye. Skewered lamb, fresh and fried vegetables, the ubiquitous couscous and my personal favourite, goats' head soup are cooked up in boisterous and lively surroundings.

After elegant sufficiency has been chalked up for mere pounds, entertainers trawl the square circled by jostling crowds. Belly dancing, child boxing contests, jugglers, tarot readers, fortune tellers and yet more dentists keep the town buzzing until well in to the early hours.

But whilst the Jemaa el-Fna is one of the most enduring images of Marrakech, it is only the tip of the sand-dune in terms of activities and sights to see.

Situated behind the Jemaa elFna is the souk, or covered market - one of the largest in Morocco. The souk offers an incredible shopping experience with a myriad of narrow winding streets that lead through a series of smaller markets clustered by trade. Through the squawking chaos of the poultry market, the gory fascination of the open-air butchers' shops and the uncountable number of small and specialist traders, just wandering around the streets can pass an entire day.

Don't expect just to be allowed to look, however. Sales techniques refined for a thousand years can land even the most cautious shopper with a range of fascinating, if unwanted, curiosities. Did I really need that goats' head toothbrush holder?

In any case, it gives you the chance to brush up on your bartering skills. The general rules are stick to your guns, try not to get ruffled and meet every "hello, my friend!" with a smile. Just don't ever expect to get a bargain.

Whilst not offering the same specialisation in goods as other Moroccan cities, such as the greater souk of Fès, the markets still offer a wonderful selection of fabrics, spices, leather goods, most especially the traditional camel-leather shoes worn by almost all Moroccans. Open-door workshops, though rarer these days, give you the chance to watch goods being made.

The souk is not something to be taken lightly, however, and trying to tackle it at the end of an exhausting day of sightseeing can be akin to torture. The thronging crowds, channelling down the narrow (and always un-signposted) streets can often be scenes of complete disarray. It is certainly not unusual to see marketeers herding their goats down a street no more than a metre wide and already busy with shoppers.

It still remains an exhausting, yet enriching experience.

In the height of summer, the temperature easily pushes the mercury through the roof, even by mid-morning, so finding something to do that doesn't involve being baked alive is a good choice for the traveller.

One of the most striking attractions of Marrakech is its abundance of beautiful gardens which are both a relaxing and cooling break from the city crush. With the orange and lemon groves that line the streets providing shade on the streets, the city also has some stunning privately owned grounds.

The most beautiful of all is the enchanting Jardins Majorelle situated just north of the Medina in the new town. These privately owned gardens were created in the 1920s by French designers, Jacques and Louis Majorelle. The immaculately kept grounds are now owned by fashion designer Yves Saint Lauren.

The cooling reflective pools, the sheltered walkways that snake through the lush greenery and the abundance of plant life from all over the region - especially cacti - are set in rich, Mediterranean blue surrounds and are a true oasis in the middle of this burning city. There is also a small gallery here, but for me, relaxing with a picnic in these gardens is the best way of recharging weary senses.

Another way to beat the heat and bustle of the souks are by checking out some of Marrakech's architecture of which the city's palaces, tombs and mosques demonstrate some of the most attractive.

Most especially, the city boasts some fine examples of the famous geometric stucco plasterwork, typical of Islamic art.

The Saadian tombs are one of the biggest tourist attractions in the country. The two large mausoleums, housing sixty-six of the Saadian ruling house, are set in pretty orchards have some of the finest and oldest examples of stucco architecture in Marrakech. However, as a popular stopping point for visitors, the site can become swamped with coach parties; best to wait for the deluge to subside and pick your moment.

The Ben Youssef Medersa and the Koutoubia Mosque also offer more examples of beautiful Islamic art and, standing deep within the Medina, are both striking landmarks.

The city's royal palaces, including the El Badia and the Bahia palace are also worth a look. South of the Jemaa el-Fna and opposite the shaded orange groves of the Place des Ferblantiers, El Badia comprises the 16th Century remains of the palace of Sultan

Ahmed al Mansour, "the victorious". Now an exposed, sun-baked hotplate, the palace grounds once comprised magnificent pools and sunken orchard gardens. An unintentional attraction is the large nests of storks which have taken over the high points in the grounds. The 19th Century Bahia Palace stands in complete contrast to El Badia and the shaded Spanish gardens and cooling courtyards are an opportunity to escape the sun.

Surely the highlight of any trip involves feasting on a wide selection of local delicacies. In truth, Moroccan food is not the spectacular taste sensation that you might expect. Food staples such as grilled, skew-ered meat, couscous and cooked vegetables are only mildly spiced and, depending on where you buy it, can border on bland.

Real treats, however, include the iconic tagine - a lamb and vegetable stew cooked in the traditional, conical earthenware pot. The availability of plenty of the green stuff means that vegetarians are well accommodated for too.

The food stalls in the main square offer the best value, but if you prefer to dine in style, Marrakech has some excellent places to eat, suiting all tastes and wallets.

The more exotic experiences of eating in the "palace" tradition can set you back a bit, but involve anything from three to eight courses of Moroccan cuisine, traditional music and dancing and are set against a backdrop of Berber luxury.

While with the scorching summer heat Marrakech maybe not be an ideal destination for a families with young children, for backpackers and the adventurous Marrakech is a city that is as stunning as it is perplexing.

* Marrakech offers travellers trekking in the Atlas Mountains (pictured), camel rides in the desert and snowboarding on the mountain slopes. For more information, visit morocco-travel-adventure.com.

* Flights to Marrakech differ greatly in price. Easyjet now offer flights to Marrakech from London Gatwick for around £150pp. 

* Accommodation is widely available near to the heart of the city, costing anything from £3-£5 a night for basic but clean backpacker hotel to £20-£40 for a night in a luxurious "riad" hotel. See the excellent www.ilove-marrakesh.com for guidance.