The merry meals of Windsor

Marc Reeves discovers the gastro delights of Windsor

Like our own Stratford, Windsor is seen by many as a place to avoid – somewhere to leave to the tourists.

From early spring to early autumn, these international "destinations" – Woodstock is another – become little Tokyos and Wyomings, the honeypots that UK plc uses to attract dollars and yen into the balance sheet.

And there’s nothing wrong with that: we know, for instance, that the "visitor economy" just in the Midlands is worth more than £5 billion, so thanks, Wilbur.

But one side effect is the annexation of these hotspots as destinations exclusively for overseas visitors. So much so they often barely register as serious options for those of us in the domestic market.

Unless, that is, you’ve discovered the secret off-season delights of these gems, and witnessed the kind of reverse-hibernation that occurs when the last tourist coach has packed up and headed back to Heathrow.

Then, blinking in the autumn sunshine, the old town emerges from underneath the veneer of union jack shops and ice cream stalls. The original essence of the place that destined it to be forever on the tourist map is revealed – whether it’s Woodstock’s Cotswold charm, or the raw isolation of Haworth village.

Surprisingly intact, these destinations seem all the more attractive in winter’s gloaming half-light, and the acres of shopping and eating choice that attracts a mad scrum in high season is transformed into an almost leisurely stroll among big-city brands that seem out of place in an otherwise tiny town.

In Windsor’s case, it’s not only the majesty of the castle – which seems even grander in a wintry setting – or even its genuinely varied shopping experience, with an emphasis on exclusive designer fashion. No, the real attraction is its location in the epicentre of culinary Berkshire.

Pardon?

For those in the know, this is the Home County with the most to offer the foodie. It’s where geek-chef Heston Blumethal established his Fat Duck restaurant (Bray is just ten minutes’ slow drive from Windsor) – now acclaimed as the best in the world.

Further west, and just north of Newbury, is the Crab at Chieveley, a former AA seafood restaurant of the year. Also near Newbury is the Vineyard at Stockcross, with what is claimed to be the greatest collection of Californian wines in Europe, thanks to owner Sir Peter Michael.

Scattered around Windsor, Maidenhead and Bray, is any number of gastropubs, exclusive fine dining destinations and gourmet hotels.

For a weekend to combine shopping and eating, Windsor is superbly placed, particularly for those travelling from the Midlands.

A straightforward drive down the M40 and A404, and a short hop over the M4 at Maidenhead takes you easily into