Paradise of land and sea in Madeira
Dec 5 2008 By Gill Martin
breaststroke arms to avoid too much turbulence, I shadowed them for a few magical moments. Just me and them, no sound but my breathing, not another being in sight in this huge blue space. I tried to keep pace as they darted effortlessly ahead, gathering speed and diving ever deeper.
It was a game of hide and seek I could never win but I had swum with the dolphins. Just. They won fins down. The other two snorkellers gave up the chase before it began.
At the Blandy family wine lodge, we tasted the jewel-coloured fortified Medeira wine.
This rich and heady drink owes its taste to the island’s acidic volcanic soils and the long aging process in wooden barrels.
In the 19th century, the wine casks were sent out for a gentle sail to the West Indies to move the wine around, as it was thought the rocking movement improved its flavour. Whatever the secret, no visit here would be complete without sampling this taste of Madeira.
The fruit and vegetable market is a hugely colourful and aromatic experience, a treat for the senses.
Madeira has plenty to attract younger visitors - sheer cliffs and clear seas make it perfect for paragliding, diving, wind-surfing, extreme mountain-biking...and canyoning down gorges and rapids. It can boast a famous young son: football icon Cristiano Ronaldo. With nearly 40 per cent of Madeirans under 25, there’s a vibrant energy in the bars, restaurants and live music events. Each Saturday in June, the sky lights up with spectacular firework displays. Bring your ear plugs.
And your walking shoes. The island’s volcanic origins and rugged mountains are a challenge for hikers. We followed the famed levadas, open-air water canals originally built by the first settlers to carry water to inaccessible farmland. Most of the levadas were dug by hand and cover a network of over 1500km, twisting among craggy rocks, towering waterfalls and lush vegetation. The mild ocean climate has helped preserve the delicate balance of ancient ecosystems and five areas have been declared nature reserves to maintain this equilibrium. In 1999, the region was recognised as a World Natural heritage site by UNESCO.
A gentle cable-car ride allows you to admire the views before skidding helter skelter downhill to Funchal, the capital town, seated in a wicker toboggan, known as cestos do Monte. These robust sledges with wooden runners and chinz pillows to cushion the bone-jarring ride have no brakes. The only thing between you and a sticky end is the strength of a pair of boater-hatted drivers, or carreiros de Monte, wearing white to match my knuckles.
I was in good company. Anther passenger who braved this 19th century transport was writer Ernest Hemingway.
But then, he ran with the bulls of Pamplona.
Madeira Factfile
* Inghams offer 6 properties in Madeira, ranging from 3* to 5* hotels.
* Travel with Inghams Lakes & Mountains to Madeira and stay at 5-star Hotel Savoy for 7 nights on half board with prices starting from £599 per person. Price includes flights from Gatwick to Funchal and resort transfers. Flights are also available at a supplement from Bristol (£25) Manchester (£25) and Stansted.
* Whale & dolphin watching with Rota dos Cetáceos costs 45€ per adult, 30€ children (aged 6-11) and under 5’s are free.
* For more information on Madeira visit: www.madeirapromotionbureau.com or call Inghams Lakes & Mountains reservations on 020 8780 4454 or visit www.inghams.co.uk
