Modern face of an ancient realm
Golf and shopping with a difference were a pleasant surprise for Anna Blackaby along Egypt’s Red Sea coast.
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Given the fact that the area around Hurghada on Egypt’s Red Sea hasn’t seen a drop of rain in six years it’s quite strange to find myself learning the basics of golf on land that, just two years ago, was desert.
But with a bit of effort, and three million litres of water a day, the desert can be made to bloom.
The Egyptian government plans to make the area a national centre for the game and where there are now three golf courses in the area around the resort of Madinat Makadi, there should be around nine in two year’s time.
As a golf virgin, I am grateful we have pro-golfer Gamal to demonstrate the basics, which he does with patience and a touch of sternness which stems from his obvious passion for the game.
It turns out I’m really bad at it, but that doesn’t matter because it leaves plenty of time to sit by the pool in the baking January sun and read up on the treasures that lie in wait in the second part of the trip taking us to the city of Luxor, built on the site of the Ancient Egyptian site of Thebes on the banks of the Nile.
Just knowing that there are still undiscovered tombs which could be brimming with Tutankhamun-style treasures – such as that of Cleopatra or the Pharoah Ramses VIII or – is enough to bring the grave-robbing spirit out in me. Arriving in Luxor, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the vast imposing complexes at Karnak and Luxor built by this mysterious civilisation over the 3,000 years they thrived on the banks of the Nile.
But our friendly Egyptologist, Abdul, is just the type of guide you need to bring the silent stone Pharaohs and mysterious carved alabaster blocks to life. He is also a big fan of British sitcoms, and the conversation is littered with the phrase “lovely-jubbly,” which doesn’t seem out of place alongside his frequent use of the Arabic phrase “Inshallah,” meaning “God willing,” when referring to any event likely to take place in the future.
Sometimes it’s the small details of history that jump out at you, like the still-vivid colours on the ceilings of tombs in the Valley of the Kings – 3,000-year-old paint which Dulux would be hard-pressed to compete with.
Or the love story between Ramses II and his beloved Queen Nefertari, lying in the Valley of the Queens with love poems penned by the Pharoah inscribed on the walls of her burial chamber.
For a change of tempo after the dusty temples and tombs we venture into Luxor souk just as the afternoon sun is fading and the wailing sound of the Mezzuin is calling the faithful to prayer.
We were warned by Abdul to be firm but polite with the market traders who have the reputation of sticking to tourists like bees on honey. Shop signs proclaiming they are “hassle-free” establishments don’t exactly reinforce the idea that this will be a relaxing experience.
But although the souk is mainly for tourists, with stalls brimming with alabaster knick-knacks and gift packs of golden and red saffron, bartering with the traders is huge fun.
Shopping becomes much more than a transaction – it turns into a lively battle of wits as you try to second-guess your opponent in the hope of reaching a happy compromise and, hopefully, coming away with something you actually want.
It’s a million miles away from the clinical exchange of plastic for goods that goes on back home and I quickly become addicted to bartering with the good-natured market stall owners, snapping up scarves and fabrics for friends back home.
I can’t help thinking it’s funny to have discovered my inner Del-boy among the market traders of Luxor – and find it hard to suppress a “lovely-jubbly” to myself as I survey my purchases back at the hotel.
* Egypt Travel Facts
* Thomson offers a seven night holiday in Egypt at the 4T Iberotel Luxor on a bed and breakfast basis from £390 per person based on two sharing.
Departing on May 6, 2009 from Birmingham Airport, the price includes return flights, accommodation, transfers and all taxes and charges.
To book, visit www.thomson.co.uk or call 0871 231 3235.
* Thomson offers a seven night holiday in Egypt at the 4T Jaz Makadi Marine, Makadi Bay on an all inclusive basis from £539 per person based on two sharing.
Departing on May 1, 2009 from Gatwick (Manchester £579) airport, the price includes return flights, accommodation, transfers and all taxes and charges. To book, visit www.thomson.co.uk or call 0871 231 3235.
* Thomson offers a fourteen night twin-centre holiday in Egypt staying 7 nights on board the 4T Nile Discovery Cruise on a full board basis and 7 nights at the 4T Makadi Marine on an all inclusive basis from £955 per person based on two sharing.
Departing on June 24, 2009 from Gatwick Airport, the price includes return flights, accommodation, transfers and all taxes and charges.
To book, visit www.thomson.co.uk or call 0871 231 3235.
