Canadian beauty that can drive you wild
Alison Dayani explores the vast wilderness of Canada where she had her very own Goldilocks moment.
I dared not breathe or make a sound as I watched the three big bears pad gently through the blushing meadow in front of me. I may be no Goldilocks, but this was my own fairytale come true in the wonderful wilds of Canada. The huge expanses of British Columbia and Alberta had spoilt me with more delights than just the elusive black bear.
A white water rafting thriller through rocky canyons, spotting killer whales and walking on a glacier were on my long list of adventures that made it such an extraordinary trip of a lifetime.
My husband Mike and I started off in Vancouver, a wonderfully vibrant city on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, which has even more reason to visit as it prepares to host the 2010 Winter Olympics with Whistler through February and March.
It’s a perfect time to head there to see some of the games or take in the atmosphere. An internet planner has been set up to help choose events, but even if you cannot make it for the Olympics, the “cultural olympiad” packed with arts and culture celebrations surrounding the Games get under way a month before the opening ceremony on January 22, continuing until March 21.
We went in summer but the multitude of attractions are just as good any season. It is well worth buying a Vancouver Attractions Pass giving access to nearly 40 tourist spots, but most importantly the hop on-hop off Trolley Tours that take you to the doorstep of so many places – historic quarters of Yaletown and Gastown, shops galore on Robson, the laidback beach culture at English Bay.
One of our particular favourites was taking a speedy little Aquabus over to Granville Island where endless rows of shiny fruit, exotic fish and spices at the food market greet visitors in a bustling atmosphere. Craft shops dot the island with gaggles of people always lazing around.
But save a few hours for the mesmerising Stanley Park. An amazing 1,000 acres of parkland, nicknamed Vancouver’s “giant green heart”.
The forest alongside skyscrapers includes a 6½mile seawall path around its edge. A piece of heaven for walkers, cyclists and rollerbladers with some of the most stunning mountain and ocean views you will see in the world, particularly at sunrise and sunset. It includes Totem Poles, Vancouver Aquarium, beaches and a nature house.
We stayed at the Rosedale on Robson Suite Hotel, making the most of its large rooms, pool and substantial breakfast, along with its central position making it ideal to roam the lively city.
It was close to the seabus terminal too, a cheap way to reach the north shore, where many of the Olympic events take place. Grouse Mountain has unrivalled views of the city from its peak, reached easily by a gondola. While nearby is the unmissable Capilano Suspension Bridge that teeters over a canyon at soaring heights.
With Vancouver being the gateway to the ocean, we ventured out on the water through a daytrip with a difference – on the fantastic Prince of Whales’ Whales and Fly tour skimming across the waves dodging remote islands towards Vancouver Island, where the region’s parliament sits in Victoria.
Seals and eagles raised some excitement but the real treat came when a few hours in we came across an Orca whale and her new baby calf. Peacefully gliding passed our boat, the shiny black and white creatures brought a lump to my throat to see them so close in their own habitat.
It would be hard to top that, but the tour then pulled up at Victoria, where we were left for a few hours to explore the charming but very touristy, “English” city complete with Ye Olde England pubs.
Wildlife and nature enthusiasts should consider spending a couple of days on Vancouver Island to see the rocky coastline and beaches, but if you only have three or four hours like us, I recommend seeing the Royal British Columbia Museum including First Nation history, longboats and totem poles.
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