A hidden gem in the Austrian alps
And in between finishing skiing for the day, eating the free snacks and getting ready for dinner, it’s a good idea to keep those pounds down by sampling the hotel’s wellness centre, which includes a swimming pool, sauna and Turkish bath.Zell am See’s 50 miles of pistes are largely located on the Schmittenhöhe mountain behind the town.
There is some of Europe’s snow-making equipment, but that’s hardly been necessary this year given the huge dollops of the white stuff that have been falling across the Alps all winter.
Most people staying in Zell will take the city express gondola, which conveniently is about five minutes walk from the Hotel St Georg.
Alternatively, there is a ski bus to the neighbouring village of Schmittental where a cable car and gondola connect to the 6,500ft Schmittenhöe skiing area.
The Klitzsteinhorn glacier, at about 9,500ft, is a short bus ride away, providing sure snow conditions and skiing even in the summer months.
Unusually for Austria, a number of the tree-lined home runs back to the resort are steep blacks. But novices need not be put off, for most of the skiing here is on reasonably benign sunny slopes and suits beginners or intermediates.
I took advantage of Inghams offer to fix up a ski school guide for half a day to show me around the slopes. The intrepid Helga, who speaks English better than the English, even put up with my less than perfect technique and waited patiently as I made my way slowly down some of the steeper red runs. It is also possible through Inghams to book refresher lessons at the ski school, ranging from brushing up of basic techniques to advanced skiing and off-piste. Clearly something that I should have invested in, but did not because too much time was spent in mountain huts sipping hot tea and restorative gluhweins.
One of the homeward blue runs, number 12b to be precise, should not be missed for it is here that you will find tucked away on the edge of the woods with a splendid view of Zell and the lake, the Ebenbergalm hut. This traditional Austrian bar-restaurant is tiny, even tinier when the owner’s huge German Shepherd dog Otto is lying in the middle of the floor, so make sure you get there by 12.30 to be certain of securing a table for lunch. Then loosen ski pants and get ready for home cooking of superlative standards, fortified by the almost obligatory schnapps.
Skiing in Austria is unlike anywhere else in Europe, for the Austrian sense of enjoyment has not been stifled by ubiquitous health and safety rules.
Smoking is still allowed in bars, there are happy hours, adults are treated as adults, no one takes life too seriously and, remarkably, there appears to be very little in the way of drunkenness or anti-social behaviour. Perhaps our own Puritanical Health Secretary, Mr Andy Burnham, could benefit from an extended skiing holiday in Austria.
At the Ebenbergalm hut, the onion soup topped with cheese and baked in the oven I enjoyed would have graced the table of many a five-star restaurant. And the cost, including a large beer, worked out at about £6 – a snip for a European skiing resort.
As for the goulash soup, don’t even go there unless you want to spend the afternoon dozing by the fire.
Generally reasonable prices – expect to pay not much more for food and drink than you would do at home – makes Zell a good choice for families on a budget.
* Travel Facts
* Paul Dale travelled to Zell am See, Austria, with Inghams and stayed at the 4*Landhotel St. Georg, Austria for seven nights on half board, with prices starting from £721 per person, including flights from Birmingham to Salzburg and resort transfers.
* Flights are also available at a supplement from Gatwick (-£27), Stansted (-£16), Bristol(+£2), Exeter(Nil), Leeds-Bradford (+£6), Manchester(+£2), Newcastle(+£8), and Glasgow(+£14).
* Ski pack items can be pre-booked: six day adult ski and boot hire starts from £142, threeday adult ski school (4hr/day) starts from £133 and a local area lift pass starts from £176.
Inghams offers a discounted Ski Saver Pack, including six-day whole area lift pass, six-day superior ski hire and three days tuition (4hrs/ day), from £382 per adult.
* Inghams Ski: www.inghams.co.uk
