High end dining in Austria's Paznaun Valley
Austria's Paznaun Valley is best known for its skiing, but Paul Fulford discovered its summer delights.
There are few things more enjoyable that a walk through beautiful Alpine scenery unspoilt by crowds or the incursion of civilisation.
But a walk through such beautiful scenery followed by a fabulous meal would probably – in this glutton’s opinion at least – better it.
Thus a trip to the Paznuan Valley in Austria ticked plenty of boxes.
Better known as a magnet for skiers when the temperatures plunge and the snow lies deep and crisp and even, the area has its attractions in the summer months, too.
Which, for me, was a bonus, for the notion of travelling anywhere cold on holiday seems just plain wrong and muddle-headed– vacations are meant to be spent slathered in Ambre Solaire in the heat of the sun, not knee-deep in snow and wrapped up warm.
Thus even I on this occasion was able fully to appreciate the magnificence of the mountains – still snow-capped – dappled with shadow and light in the blaze of the sun.
Or the crystal clear mountain meltwater streams winding and babbling their way down the mountainside and providing a refreshing drink, mixed with elderflower cordial, as we climbed a steep but easily manageable mountain path.
Or the wild flowers dancing in a gentle breeze, the air that was so clear you wanted to drink it and the tinkling of the bells around the neck of cattle that watched impassively as we passed.
Or the unexpected culinary treats that await those who embark on a trek along the Kulinarischer Jakobsweg – a trail peppered with ski lodges that during the summer boast menus devised by the area’s Michelin-starred chefs.
Do not expect refined food. Do expect traditional dishes given modern twists and prepared with finesse and no small degree of skill.
There are four “huts” – as the lodges were rather inaccurately described – on the Jakobsweg.
Each is under the guidance of a Michelin-starred chef – Martin Dalass (Ristorante Santabbondino, Sorengo, Switzerland)), Norbert Niederkofler (Rosa Alpina, San Cassiano, Sud Tirol, Italy), Martin Fauster (Konigshof, Muncih, Germany) and Martin Sieberer (Paznauner Stuben, Paznaun, Austria).
Expect dishes such as tafelspitz, one of those boiled beef and vegetable dishes that would be instantly recognisable to working folk throughout Europe but here crafted into a thing of tender, savory and multi-layered beauty.
Though a world away from the sort of fine dining to which Michelin groupies are used and without a foam or any other such trickery in sight, the skill that goes into the production of these dishes is unquestionable.
