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German village keeps up medieval tradition

The Passion Plays crucifixion scene.

It was here that Vassily Kandinsky, the Russian pioneer credited with painting the first modern abstract works, a new expressionist style which revolutionised the world of art, lived in the early years of the 20th century.

And it was also in this part of the world that Kandinsky began a relationship with Berlin-born Gabriele Munter, later to become a key figure in the Munich avant-garde movement of the period.

The house where the two artists lived is still there, a handsome structure a short ten-minute walk from the picturesque town centre.

Kandinsky’s Russian roots forced him back to his homeland when World War One broke out, and the two artists never saw each other again.

But Munter stayed true to the cause of art, hiding Kandinsky’s work and those of other members of the Blue Rider expressionist group from the Nazis during the Second World War. She died, aged 85, in Murnau in May 1962.

Murnau Castle is also one of this charming town’s numerous claims to fame. The oldest part of the building dates from the year 1233 and there are still remnants of the original medieval windows.

Today the town is a popular destination for summer holidays, its popularity as a Bavarian retreat enhanced by the erection of elegant villas dating back to the late 19th century. There’s something intangible in the air at both Oberammergau and Murnau. It’s a beguiling mixture of stunning scenery, cleanliness, tradition and culture which has survived plagues, wars and other horrors for centuries. Long may that continue.

Travel Facts

* Jon Griffin flew with Lufthansa to Bavaria. Lufthansa flights to Munich are available from £99 from Birmingham, London, Manchester, Newcastle, Edinburgh and Inverness. See www.lufthansa.com

* For details of the Hotel Bold, Oberammergau, see www.hotelboeld.de or email info@hotelboeld.de

* Information on the Passion Play is available at www.oberammergau-passion.com.

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