Franche Comte could be France's best-kept tourism secret

Jun 16 2010 By Ross McCarthy

Ross McCarthy travels to the French border region of Franche Comte, an area steeped in history and proud tradition.

You would not normally expect to find a sleepy dormouse in a glass cabinet at a crystal exhibition. Or, for that matter, eat chocolate with fresh basil and partially gelled tomato purée.

But, in an area of France unfamiliar to the majority of British holidaymakers, there is plenty to discover and savour in Franche Comte.

Thousands of Brits flock each year to our near neighbours to sample their food, their history and their beautiful and diverse countryside.

The Dordogne, the Loire Valley and Provence remain firm favourites as holiday destinations for many of us as well as the sunny Mediterranean.

Nestled, however, just next to Switzerland and sandwiched between Alsace and Burgundy, is Franche-Comte – made up of the areas of Jura, Doubs, Haute-Saone and Territore de Belfort – and which has culture, rolling wooded countryside and gastronomic surprises in abundance.

This province in eastern France, easily reached by Eurostar and TGV, would seem to offer something for everyone whether you are a culture vulture, an adrenalin junkie or just looking to relax in rural tranquillity.

Those looking for a base from which to explore this diverse region, more than half of which is covered with forests, rivers and waterfalls, could do no better than choose its capital, Besancon, which is one of France’s greenest cities, positioned in a loop of the river Doubs.

A former centre for clock making, its main attraction is its imposing citadel, primarily the work of 17th century military architect Vauban, which was built from 1668 to 1683, covers an area of 11 hectares and towers more than 100 metres above the old city.

Over the centuries it has acted as a military fortress, a barracks and a prison and had been laid siege to on a number of occasions while during the Second Warold War the fortress was used for the execution of 100 resistance fighters.

But for nearly 40 years it has become a major centre for historical and scientific culture containing several museums.

Animals also play a significant part in attracting visitors with baboons living in its moat, while inside is a zoo offering an array of different creatures including a lion, some tigers, llamas, exotic birds and some very playful primates. Tickets at eight euros are also great value.

Afterwards, I visited the town centre with its attractive streets thronged with evening strollers and shoppers, some still colourfully dressed as the capital had just played host to a street music festival.

Once ruled by the Spanish, Franche-Comte has been defended against invaders on numerous occasions so it is no surprise to discover that one of its other principal cities, Belfort, on its northern edge, in the Territore de Belfort, also has a citadel.

During the late 17th and early 18th centuries it remained impregnable to attack while a statue of a lion was built on its ramparts to commemorate the city’s heroic resistance during a siege.

Referred to as the “town in the countryside” Belfort is scattered with parks, and art is everywhere, while the old town, with its restaurants and boutiques, contrasts with the large stores and shopping arcades.

Vauban also left his mark here, as did another famous figure, Louis Pasteur – he of milk pasteurization fame – who features prominently in the region, having lived in Arbois.