Berlin’s looking up
Jun 24 2010 By Emily Bridgewater
Emily Bridgewater goes off the beaten tourist track to find the German capital is bustling with invention and creativity.
Sitting on the beach, knocking back a cold beer and watching the sun set – it was a near perfect way to toast a Saturday night.
But this wasn’t Bondi Beach, nor Bognor beach, but Ostrand beach in Berlin. Yes, landlocked Berlin.
See, Berlin is a city of surprises, and the chilled-out beach – complete with sand, deckchairs and a bar – situated on the east bank of the river Spree, tucked midway between the longest remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall, is just one of them.
Explore this eclectic city and every street corner will tantalise your senses – whether it’s a chic boutique where you were least expecting one, a wall daubed in Banksy-style graffiti art or a sombre reminder of the Second World War.
Our base was boutique Hotel Otto in the stylish neighbourhood of Charlottenburg in the north-west of the city and an easy ten-minute taxi journey from Tegel airport. A gem of a hotel, it is run by staff passionate about exceeding customer expectations; from the friendly and informative front desk service to the complimentary homemade cakes served in the top floor lounge from afternoon ‘til late. Our top floor suite, complete with kitchen and spacious lounge, also boasted a terrace offering far-reaching views of the city. It’s modern and stylish but uncomplicated – almost utility chic, and the epitomy of Berlin.
Breakfasts were superlative, all organic and homemade, from pancakes and maple syrup with fresh fruit to traditional currywurst sausages and tiny sugared jam doughnuts known as Berliners. They were unquestionably essential for a long day of sightseeing.
We invested in a Welcome Berlin card, which for less than €10 a day offers unlimited use of public transport as well as discounts on entry to hundreds of the city’s attractions.
It was money well spent because – like London – Berlin is a sprawling city and while many of the key sights, such as the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, are within walking distance of one another, the use of the excellent train, tram and underground system is essential in making the most of your stay.
The city is divided into distinct neighbourhoods, or kieze, each with a unique character and atmosphere. While you could spend your Berlin break dashing between guide book sights, for a true feel of today’s Berlin it’s about finding the neighbourhood best suited to you.
The old West Berlin kieze, such as Charlottenburg and Schoneburg, are elegant with tree-lined boulevards and classy little shops and restaurants. It was here we discovered home ware emporium Stilwerk – a sort of shopping mall for interior design fanatics. The famous KaDeWe department store on Kurfurstendamm was also close by, and as foodies we headed straight for the gourmet hall, which offers no less than 1,400 different kinds of bread, and almost as many types of sausage.
However, contrary to popular belief, German food isn’t just about bread and sausages, and we were never short of restaurant options in these neighbourhoods. Superb Japanese food, prepared before our eyes, was guzzled appreciatively in hip hotspot Kuchi, while pizzas and salads to die for were served up in Zwolf Apostel (12 Apostles).
