Gourmet Scotland

Jul 2 2010 By Emily Bridgewater

Emily Bridgewater goes on a culinary tour of Edinburgh and finds there is much to savour.

Think that Scottish fare is all about haggis and deep fried Mars bars? Think again.

Over the last few years the growth in Edinburgh’s dining scene has been unprecedented with Scotland’s capital now ranking as a top destination for foodies.

Whether it’s Michelin-star fine dining or a greasy spoon, this city has it all.

So, with insatiable appetites and some girth-friendly clothing, my partner and I embarked on a three-day culinary tour de force, with a spot of sightseeing thrown in to while away the hours between meals. Our first port of call was lunch at The Dogs (www.thedogsonline.co.uk), a fun first-floor cafe bursting with character and buzz.

It’s a popular haunt thanks to its hearty fare at pocket-friendly prices. Think chunky broths, served on vintage crockery followed by a homemade pud and vanilla pod custard. I opted for the butternut squash and coconut soup while the other half chose the comforting sausage and bean stew. It was filling and satisfying although this did not prevent us from tucking into rice pudding with stewed seasonal fruits for dessert. The Dogs is moments from the famous Princes Street, which is not only a Mecca for high-street shopping fans, but also offers stunning views from the New Town across to the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.

Despite an over-inflated entrance price the castle is well worth a visit, even if it’s just to enjoy the cityscape from the vantage point of Castle Rock.

Later we dined at The One Below at The Rutland (www.therutland.com), a hotel with a contemporary restaurant situated at one end of Princes Street. The food was smart and well-executed and we indulged in Aberdeen Angus steak and quality seafood from the Scottish coast.

It was hard to believe, but appetites were back with a vengeance the following day and we couldn’t wait for lunch at Oloroso (www.oloroso.co.uk), a stylish restaurant owned by renowned chef Tony Singh. Its enviable top floor location and floor-to-ceiling glass windows give diners panoramic views of the city – coast one side, castle the other.

Singh is something of a celebrity chef in these parts (he also owns the more informal bistro Tony’s Table www.tonystable.com) and is known for his elegant, yet eclectic menus, offering Scottish steaks and duck alongside his curry of the day. I opted for the later, which was a sumptuous beef madras with all the trimmings. I was not disappointed, although post-pudding of homemade ice creams and sorbets, I was glad of the climb to the summit of Arthur’s Seat, 251m above sea level. So was my partner who’d lunched on scallops and fillet steak, followed by plum tart.

Later, we visited the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and enjoyed an exhibition of work by British artists including Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin.

Located in the tranquil and affluent district of Stockbridge, the museum was also conveniently close to our dinner venue The Stockbridge (www.thestockbridgerestaurant.com).

Tucked away below street level, this basement restaurant offered our most intimate and romantic dining experience. The service was discreet and we enjoyed sublime dishes of venison and halibut.

The following day lunch was at 21212 (www.21212restaurant.co.uk) and Paul Kitching’s latest venture was our most exciting Scottish dining experience yet. The menu gives diners the option of choosing up to five courses from a selection of two starters, one soup, two main courses, one cheese and two desserts.

The dining room is as opulent and quirky as the food, with grand chandeliers and high-backed leather chairs. I thought the venison with Brazil nut and cheese scone was particularly memorable, while we delighted at the special little touches such as the curry-flavoured bread and a pre-dessert of porridge-flavoured milk being served from a cow-shaped jug into tiny milking buckets.

* Travel Info

For more details on culinary breaks to Scotland and all the other attractions on offer go to www.visitscotland.com