Paradise on a cruise around the Mediterranean

Jul 30 2010 By Sophie Cross

Sophie Cross enjoys the luxury and ease of cruising in the Mediterranean.

Here come the penguins, my dad used to joke on many a family summer holiday spent lazing on a beach in the Mediterranean.

Far from referring to any misplaced aquatic birds, he was talking about the groups of newly-arrived tourists who could regularly be seen “waddling” off nearby cruise ships, thanks to their frequent plumpness and the weight of the cameras they were wielding.

This memory formed a lasting impression of what a cruise would be like, regimented, repetitive and rather dull.

So when I heard a rumour about cruise company NCL’s “freestyle cruising”, I was intrigued.

The chance arose to try a trip on the Norweigan Jade, promising “four-star luxury, do-as-you-please informality, fun, freedom and flexibility”.

That and the lure of 12 different on-board restaurants and I was sold hook, line and ahem... sinker.

Ahead of me lay the sun-soaked beaches of Gran Canaria, Madeira’s flower-speckled shores, the rich history of Málaga and finally the cosmopolitan streets of Barcelona.

I eased myself into the Med’s relaxed atmosphere by enjoying tapas and a refreshing beer in one of the bustling cafés found in Gran Canaria’s capital, Las Palmas.

We grabbed a taxi to the port and could spot Jade from a mile off. Glistening in the sunlight, the imposing ocean hotel was comfortably the biggest liner among those patiently awaiting their passengers.

We spent a while navigating our way around, admiring the outdoor pool, hot tubs, basketball courts, casino and spa. It would clearly take a lot to get bored on board.

The impressive 90-metre-long ship was previously based in Hawaii, and you could tell – there were colourful flowery decorations everywhere and carpets so bright they were almost psychedelic.

We set sail at sunset, meeting for a pre-dinner cocktail in one of the many bars available before heading to the Teppenyaki restaurant.

But despite the entertainment of seeing a chef bouncing food from knife to knife before aiming it into diners’ mouths, there was no escaping that I was starting to feel slightly sea sick...

Begrudgingly I had to traipse back to my “stateroom” (these aren’t just cabins. These are NCL cabins, complete with private balcony) to lie down.

The crew assured me the sea was unusually choppy that night, and having always ended up feeling nauseous on long car journeys, in hindsight I probably should have popped a travel sickness pill as soon as we headed off.

Feeling better I woke early, just in time to see the ship dock at the beautiful island of Madeira, Portugal.

The tiny isle was still recovering from the effects of the devastating flash floods which hit in February, with rubble piled high along the pretty coastline of its capital, Funchal, and roads cordoned off while the mud log was shifted.

But I still enjoyed the day exploring the old town and historic mercado dos lavradores (workers’ market), where women sold flowers in traditional Madeiran costume, before taking a trip to the 17th-century São Tiago fortress.

The bright yellow edifice was built in response to frequent raids on the island by pirates, but thankfully now just houses a modern art gallery and military museum – in which I managed to find a 19th-century Westley Richards rifle made in Birmingham.

On my stroll I tried the island’s famous sweet wine and a snack of homemade bread with chorizo and garlic butter before hopping in a cable car to admire the views from Funchal’s highest point.

From the Nossa Senhora do Monte church you can whizz back down to the port on a wicker toboggan sled – apparently the traditional means of transport for people living uphill, which dates back to the 19th century. These guys clearly have a sense of fun.

Safely back in the city centre I stumbled across what is possibly the age-old city’s most forward-thinking business: the Mini Eco Bar.

I enjoyed a ‘bio tea’ and delicious pastel de nata (like a custard tart) in the trendy haunt where tables are made from recycled washing machine parts, sofas from bathtubs and menus from vinyl records, providing many a talking point.

I made it back in time to set off for sunny Spain, the first of two days spent entirely at sea during our five-day taster. This is where NCL’s relaxed approach to cruising really counts – there are no set meal times or tables and you can be as active or inactive as you like.

I spent the day in the spa and steam rooms, which look out over the ocean. It’s strange, but although the number of passengers on board had swelled to more than 2,000, it didn’t feel overcrowded. We had a tour of the bridge and, at the risk of sounding ridiculous, I was a bit disappointed to find the wheel wasn’t half as big or pirate-ship-like as I’d hoped, with much of the navigating controlled by a dashboard full of buttons and dials.

Still, the captain let us try on his hat and arranged to join us and the ship’s friendly hotel director for dinner at the Jade’s Italian eatery.

Arriving in Málaga we were greeted by the Alcazaba – the city’s Moorish fortress – found in prime enemy-spotting position atop a hill overlooking the port.

A must-see is the Picasso Museum, located a stone’s throw away from the house where the great artist himself was born and home to more than 200 of his paintings, drawings and sculptures.

Our guide, Juan, said there had been more rain in the region over the past four months than during the previous 70 years, joking: “To see the mountains green and the rivers with water in them is an amazing thing for us.”

We went on to nearby Nerja, where dozens of prehistoric caves were discovered in 1959 by a group of young boys.

Below ground was a stunning open area of huge stalagmites and stalactites, forming strange shapes for which locals have come up with all sorts of explanations (spectres, ostriches and Romeo and Juliet can all be seen here).

We docked early in stylish Barcelona, from where we flew home. Although I was looking forward to being permanently back on terra firma, my opinion of cruises has definitely improved.

It’s great to only have to unpack once, while seeing so much in so many different places. Penguin-waddling entirely optional.

TRAVEL FACTS:
 Norwegian Jade’s nine-night Canary Islands and Morocco Fly-Cruises depart on December 3 and 24, 2010, January 14, February 4 and 25, March 18 and April 8, 2011.
 Prices from £849, based on two sharing and flights from Heathrow. 
 More details at www.ncl.co.uk or call 0845 201 8900