Roz Laws finds a getaway in the Balkans mostly still untouched by mass tourism

I have a confession to make. Before going to Serbia, I couldn’t have pointed it out on the map.

I had a vague idea that it’s one of those Balkan states that used to be Yugoslavia and the site of bloody civil wars in the 1990s.

But I couldn’t tell you if it’s by the sea (it isn’t) or that it lies between Greece, Romania and Croatia.

It would seem that I’m not the only one. You’d be hard-pressed to find a guide book on Serbia in most shops. There certainly wasn’t one anywhere in Heathrow Airport.

But the fact it’s an undiscovered tourist spot is a definite advantage. If you go now, you can enjoy it while it’s still unspoiled. Imagine what Prague was like before it was invaded by stag parties.

And if you venture outside the capital, Belgrade, you’ll discover stunning countryside, hospitable people and low prices. Even better, it’s almost on our doorstep, reached by a plane journey of less than two-and-a-half hours.

There aren’t many places so close to home that have had recent experience of armed conflict but which are now perfectly safe.

Nato bombed Belgrade in 1999 and the evidence remains in the shells of buildings. But the capital is generally a pleasant city of imposing architecture, impressive squares and wide streets, alongside a cobbled, atmospheric Bohemian quarter packed with bars, restaurants and galleries.

Overlooking the city is the Kalemegdan Fortress, which has been conquered 77 times, destroyed and rebuilt in its 7,000-year history. Now the grounds include a museum, observatory and zoo.

The centre of Belgrade is a modern pedestrianised area, with smart shops and the trendy boutique Hotel Bah. The Danube runs through the middle of the capital, and a particularly good way of getting around is by bicycle.

You can hire a bike for the day for less than £5. There’s a flat, well-marked cycle route alongside the river, which you can actually follow all the way from Budapest to the Black Sea.

Everything is good value here. A pint of beer costs around 90p and you can eat and drink well for a fiver.