Edward Stephens marvels at the mix of old and new in charming Cyprus.
It must have been quite a shock for the workmen taxed with setting out a new pedestrian area in the old part of the popular Cypriot town of Limassol.
One minute they were happily levelling land outside the town’s ancient castle – the next they were unearthing human bones from a previous civilisation.
The discovery of the skeleton only temporarily threw the project into disarray, however. The workmen were soon back about their business while their place on the burial site has been taken by archaeologists painstakingly clearing away soil a little at a time in undisguised expectation that there may be more artefacts to be found.
But on an island like Cyprus, which has been ruled by so many different countries over the centuries, history is never very far beneath the surface.
Even when staying at one of the island’s premier hotels I walked into the car park to take a photograph of it’s 800-year-old olive tree and found I was standing next to an ancient tomb, now readily accessible to guests and tourists staying in the area.
The tomb was just one of the many surprises at the five-star Amathus Beach Hotel, an ocean front property situated around six miles from the town centre.
The first time I walked through the outer doors of the hotel I found myself unexpectedly in a vivid purple glass cube worthy of Tracey Emin or Damien Hirst.
As the inner doors of the psychedelic cube opened to let me into the lobby my eyes were drawn to the spectacular panorama of beach, palm trees and the Mediterranean Sea opening up before me.
The view, as seen through the giant floor to ceiling windows of the vast atrium took my breath away – precisely as it was designed to.
For the “Cube Effect” is not by chance. In fact nothing is left to chance at this stunning property.
Shaped like an Aztec pyramid it’s both a member of the Leading Hotels of the World and the leading Spas of the World and guests return time and again to enjoy its peaceful serenity, five superb and varied eateries, and facilities which include two outdoor pools, a stunning 20-metre indoor pool – one of the biggest on the island – and a superb gym.
Limassol is a busy, bustling town, but at Amathus Beach tranquillity reigns, particularly if – like us – you are lucky enough to be staying in a junior suite with its own private swimming pool. These are situated in a separate wing of the hotel, and you step through your patio doors onto a private spacious decking area surrounding the pool and overlooking your own tiny garden looking out to sea.
The mornings here are the best. To be able to sit pool-side with an early morning cup of tea and look out over the sea is bliss. All you can hear is the sound of running water as it trickles over the edge of your pool into a stream below and you can’t help feeling that all is right with the world.
One of the nice things about this property is that because it was one of the first to be built on this section of coastline it boasts some 4,000 square metres of beach front gardens so even guests who don’t have a private pool and decking area do have the luxury of being able to relax on their sunbed without having to lie cheek by jowl with other sun worshippers, as at most large hotels.
And if spas are your thing the property’s new Spa and Wellness centre is stunning. with its “floating” boardwalks surrounded by reflective pools. My Thai massage, performed by a native of that country, was the most professional and relaxing I have ever had.
From the hotel it’s an easy drive into town and in May when we were there the Jacaranda trees on the route all looked like as if they had been given a vivid dab of purple from an artists pallet as their spectacular flowers were in full bloom glorifying the coastline.